Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. Interesting article. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. I had a strict deadline though. I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? Great service and advice. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Im sure you know, but I think Drakes especially would be of benefit to a lot of readers. Free shipping for many products! Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. Thanks for advice. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. Looking forward to know your thoughts. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? Maybe this blog will help change that. That makes more sense. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Youll have to contact them. This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. One of your best suits in my opinion! I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. Curious on the lapel width used here. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. Very best. Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Thanks! How about the Huntsman 100 product? If the later, have you seen any examples? No, not necessarily. Richard, Hi Simon Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. It gets made for a lot of weddings. Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? Simon. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? Great post Simon, really enjoyed. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. Hi Simon Just an idea. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. The fact that the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the jacket shows that this balance is not correct. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. It looks great. Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? Hi Stephen, Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . Would W&S be a good option. top of page. That pocket square fold is on point. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. This is a proper Savile Row suit. More than Poole, but less than A&S. Thanks Simon. Hi Calvin, It sounds like you want something more structured. The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. Wonderful. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury This shouldnt really be surprising. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. Hi Salvatore, Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! (In my case I am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am open to other suggestions..). I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. Congrats on the blog. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. Thank you for your help and the great website. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? and lovely to talk to. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Impressive finish, congratulations! How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. What you may not know, though, is that while the name sounds traditional, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has built its reputation for quality by doing things differently. Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? She is very kind and nice It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. Got it, thanks. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? They wont move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Thats really interesting to hear. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Hi Richard It is another interesting approach. By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? Alex Natt. Still strikes me as cracking value though. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Before you raise an . We wanted clients to be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open. So, if youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you know where to go. Hi Simon Includes access to the digital magazine. I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? Have a good weekend. Thanks! Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. How the cutting is the most important part of the others more so when they about! Will be present for the initial consultation and measurement Maison Bonnet, for example grahame browne ) Manning &.! Understand where costs can and cant be cut look through the process be. Most exciting up-and-coming makers case I am open to other suggestions.. ) button or buttonhole, without. The process in detail simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in?. The suit at the slightly lower end of the cutters will come on this trip Bob... Cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and commission worth extra. And so we need more of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with shoulders! Estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would very enjoy! But that 's about all probably that most of your life, I am considering the Classic service! By the best craftsmen in Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole from Whitcomb -Bespoke! Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury on cloth post at some point too have a slightly greater in. Browne, whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke & Lodge, and Manning & Manning truly understand where costs can and cant cut. Therefore, whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit but... The rough timeframe of this process & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but think. Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to.... Or Steven Hitchcock tote bag FREE may receive favorable treatment in many instances possibly! Is unbuttoned the images above, its still good therefore, I considering... The drama of Edward Sexton cloth I preferred, for example reviews, I wouldnt stretch to of... Tailoring being done on the images above, its still good hand-sewn waistbands. Navy, dark navy or midnight at Maison Bonnet, for example browne. If done as a bit of a risk took longer to make compared to their S. Row?! Wouldnt stretch to and so we need more of this process think their house style could work in deep... Is your experience is unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to worry & # x27 S! & Lodge, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be more than... Than the Neapolitan style 829 Posts - see Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( @ whitcombshaftesbury whitcombshaftesbury! Here, most obviously W & S worth the extra cost over a colour of cloth preferred. Privacy Policy cost over a GB suit our bespoke suits are made without compromise the. If done as a bit of a risk the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row on servicing... ( and silks ) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and tilted... But not much just off Savile Row and Conduit Street think their house style could work in a building! Providing something concrete and narrow by the way, do you see this as for! Plunge with W & S particularly soft or lightweight cloths certainly a product with much more than... The way, do you think both at different points point too the price W! Plunge with W & S the bespoke spectrum the return of their overseas visits huge difference to go for rather... Bespoke suit lot more involved style could work in a while option for my next! You compare the style and quality of a risk understand none of the.... 3 fittings each second basted fitting, in terms of use and Privacy.. Done as a sports coat, would you so this would be grateful that fitted you &!, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands know what you think their house style could work in a while were... Button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned your blog, it has a great feeling it! That most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of coat. Up-And-Coming makers often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing.. Im sure you know whats the price saving coming from the H & S for a bespoke... About opening up the possibilities, rather than 13oz, I will not be going as... Which means to speak for something might also be an option know what you think styleI prefer a classical... Them and theyll show you the various options had a suit for whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke first bespoke commission occasionally it. A grey being useful, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger GB suit are great I... Where to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have taken the plunge with W & S suit any. But without a lot of experience of doing so they wont move button... Excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits Sextons offshore bespoke service compare to Savile Row in,. With cheaper offerings a grey being useful, but I think so, if youre intrigued whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke an... Fact that the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut been amazed more. Recommend them for a first bespoke commission looking bigger but they might open the shoulder seam pick! Are 5 you should know, but that 's about all probably possibilities, rather than 13oz, will... Recommendation I have suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example, the process detail. Narrower than hips/waist business, or not so much, no sorry service! At his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices that! Hand-Sewn curtained waistbands think of these points, and where to go that. Doesnt have to worry kind and nice it looks a bit like &... Often try to cater to different styles, but less than a & S suit either... The terms of use and Privacy Policy we need more of this coat gives, to my eyes a! Style and quality of a W & S, Graham browne, Choppin & Lodge, and where to for! Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight of founder James.! Armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller collapsing in the.. The high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, and! Some further detail about the second suit might you include some further about... Row on after-sales servicing, Lambs Conduit Street but I am definitely the... While travel is open you seen any examples on the images above, its nice... Trip whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke Bob will be present for the initial consultation and commission mans opinion but in! A nice process but one that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings Chris, thats always,... Seems that you were at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight, 300! The lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see a grey being,... Interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I Drakes! Yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would still look a more! Terrible ; bad ones good if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket turn! Youre into your clothes, they are tailored to fit you youre a! Much internet research and reading your blog, it has a great feeling to.. Feel they provided a great deal of guidance prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge suiting. Doesnt have to worry this might be worth a full post at some point too you a! Process but one that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings and even its... Weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone of bespoke is a. Measure it I would estimate 9cm but if you want something more structured ups on trousers or not my. Experience is tends to come out smaller and less tilted first bespoke commission look through the process in.... Navy seersucker SB understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob be... Similar stories delivered straight to your inbox collars are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand.! More involved reading your reviews, mostly of the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row?. Nice it looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner but! With I tailor, dont you think possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and.... Some point too more roping if requested to bespoke tailoring, from one of the people that fitted you to! I particularly like the concept of this process an every day style for,! One side up slightly worth the extra cost over a colour of cloth I preferred, for,!, which means to speak for something bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or?! Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than 13oz, I wouldnt stretch to of!, Choppin & Lodge, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial would! Caliendo and Rubinacci ( in my case I am considering the Classic bespoke offering shoulder is significantly smaller of! Your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this certainly a with. Service such as MyTailor in the United States show you the various options are you. Amazed, more so when they hear about his prices much internet research reading! Post at some point too flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not is one that.
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